Flashback: biting through the big apple

I guess everyone has some sort of a bucket list. A list with things one wishes to do, see, accomplish during his/her life. Marco already could tick one thing off of his list:

• buying a boat and going sailing for an extended period of time. 

And now there was something else, it could be combined with:

• sailing to and through New York City!

After Block Island we had to decide if we either sail directly to the Chesapeake Bay - an offshore passage that would bring us faster to our final destination in Maryland. But we would miss Long Island Sound and more importantly New York City. After some consideration we decided to take the longer route through Long Island Sound. Yes, we actually had to rush because of our ill family member but it looked like we could risk to make a detour to fulfill a long-term dream!

From Block Island (to the right) we sailed through Long Island Sound to NYC (to the left)

And we quickly understood why this waters are so popular among sailors. It reminded us of sailing on our "home lake" Lake of Constance back in Switzerland. There are countless nice spots to point your bow at just within reach of a couple of hours sailing in perfect conditions.

Habibi on anchor in Oyster Bay

calm conditions on Long Island Sound

beautiful wooden boats everywhere we went

first sight of the Big Apple

Due to lack of time we just hopped along the Northern shore of Long Island, NY and unfortunately missed the coast of Connecticut altogether. First place to drop the hook was in Three Miles Harbor, a huge and protected anchorage just a view miles away from the famous Hamptons and Sag Harbor. We stayed there till the day after 4th of July and what usually ends up with lots of boats battling for a nice anchor spot and noise all night long happened to be the most peaceful place on earth!
We quickly made our way West, with short stops in Port Jefferson (much more boats there!), Oyster Bay (also very nice anchorage but very sleepy town) and finally in Port Washington where we took one of the town moorings, that are 48h for free and after that cost USD 25 including complimentary launch service. It's a safe place to leave the boat while exploring NYC (there's a train station a 20min walk into town) AND it's perfect to time the passage through the East River!

From A we sailed first West and then down South on the East River to Battery Park in Lower Manhattan

So, what's the deal with this East River and timing it right? According to our sailing guides the East River isn't a river! It's actually a tidal strait, connecting Upper New York Bay with Long Island Sound. And as we mentioned in a previous post one thing we had to learn in this waters was to check the tides and currents - and the East River has some very strong current flows that can reach up to 7 knots (cruising speed on our sailboat is max 6 knots)! Just imagine you've got that mess against you... So the plan was to have the current WITH us. There is one spot which needs utmost attention in this planning process (and the name says it all): HELL GATE. It marks somehow the middle of the East River with the strongest tidal current, heavy swirls and boils, a channel dog leg in a narrow section of the river and heavy commercial traffic. In other words: we wanted to time our passage just right!

Off we went to dig our noses into our guides and tidal current tables and decided to time our passage as follows:
To have a fair current all the way we checked the time of 1. "Slack Water – Ebb Begins" at Hell Gate (The tidal current floods North & East and Ebbs South & West in the East River) and 2. "High Tide" at the Battery.
On our designated travel day, 14th July 2013, No. 1 was at 14.51, and No. 2 at 12.24. We untied the mooring lines in Port Washington at 12.50 with the intention to shoot for slack water or starting Ebb at Hell Gate.

Throgs Neck Bridge - First of many

It was a very hot day with almost no breeze. As we did this passage the first time we were a bit nervous and motor-sailed the first stretch. When it got more busy and tight we decided to roll in the sails and to just use the engine. I think we were lucky to travel on a Sunday as we didn't see too many commercial vessels passing by.

all in one: tug boat, airplane, crazy motor-yacht captain

Then Hell Gate came into sight and it looked like we'd timed it just right. When we passed the legendary spot we just saw the water bubbling a little bit and the current kicked right in - flowing WITH us. Phew...

approaching Hell Gate

just a few bubbles...

We were relieved and started to enjoy the ride past Upper East Side, Ed Queensboro Bridge with the Roosevelt Island aerial Tramway, the U.N. Headquarter and the Empire State Building.

Captain on the helm while the Admiral was taking pictures

Between Williamsburg and Brookly Bridge we were flying! Our SOG (Speed over Ground) hit 9.4 knots which means the strongest current we had was approximately 3.4 knots.

Around the Battery it got a bit more busy and choppy because of the water taxis, ferries, Cruise Ships and weekend traffic. 

But soon we were past all that and threw a last glimpse at the skyline of New York City.

But one last highlight was still waiting for us - The Statue of Liberty, standing proud on Liberty Island!

Bye bye New York!

The trip through the Narrows down to Sandy Hook where we dropped the anchor for the night was almost a piece of cake - a quiet, uneventful sail on a calm and hot summer day.

Flashback: How we ended up on Block Island

shape of Block Island: locals call it a "pork chop"

It was mid-April in Culebra/Puerto Rico when we met Bill (an American cruising bartender with Irish roots, we mentioned him already in this former post) on the "Dinghy Dock Bar & Restaurant" where he was working on the weekends. His opinion, besides that of others, was an important factor in our decision making process on how to proceed with our sailing route after the Caribbean. To make a long story short: he is a little bit to "blame" that we ended up in Bermuda, New England and especially on Block Island, RI.

We all have a certain picture in mind when we hear "Bermuda" - sup-tropical climate, turquoise water, offshore companies, Bermuda triangle etc. But what's the picture when you hear "Block Island"? To be honest I'd never heard of it before. Bill already had raved about Bermuda's beauty and it turned out that he was right.
So we simply decided to trust him and his friend Dave as they highly praised "their" Block Island... and got a very warm welcome!

Before we even caught a glimpse of Block Island we had to fight our way through hundreds of sailing vessels that were participating in a race - very common during the season as we learnt later. The famous "Block Island Race Week" would have their 25th Anniversary just a week after our arrival.

According to our friends' advice we called them once entering Great Salt Pond, a big anchorage and perfect refuge for any boater, and they guided us to a mooring ball where we could tie up to (the picture below shows our view).

that was before Race Week, during and after boats were tied to every mooring ball you can see

withing minutes it could also look like this - FOG!

You have to know that in comparison to the Caribbean the docking and mooring prices in the US, especially in the New England and New York area, are ridiculously expensive.

We.never.paid.a.cent!

No, the opposite happened. When the anchorage filled up with boats for the Race Week we had to leave our mooring. Immediately a plan was concocted and we could move over to Dave's private mooring (which he easily could have rented out for big money). And if this was not enough we got invited wherever we went. Our first stop was - of course - "Payne's Dock" the bar Bill worked in since many years.

A gathering point during Happy Hour we met old and made new friends. The fact that we were one of the only two foreign flagged boats on the whole island and had sailed there from Bermuda served to fuel discussions. I remember one story very clearly: We got introduced to Jim. Our friends suggested to us to go on an island tour with him. You must know - on our journey through the Caribbean we got countless offers for an island tour and the prices could be very variable. So our reaction was a bit reluctant... But our friends kept pushing us until we gave in. So we walked with Jim to his car. We expected there would be a minivan waiting for us. But then slowly we started to realize that it was Jim's private car and that he wasn't actually a tour guide. Jim was just a very friendly and open-minded guy! During the next hour he drove us over the tiny island, showed us hidden spots and explained what celebrities used to or still live there. It was overwhelming, really.
Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of Jim. But he showed us a very special memory he was carrying around in his wallet since many years: it shows him as a little boy with his dog, a German shepherd.

We spent some very relaxed days, explored the island, bought some fruits and veggies on a farmers market, met friends, Marco went sailing with Bill on his little "Sailfish", a sailing dinghy.

Block Island actually attracts thousands of tourists during the summer months. The temperatures are lower than on the mainland and they also call it "Bermuda of the North". It's a summer oasis just 150 Miles from New York City. A perfect getaway with great beaches, bars, restaurants, biking, hiking, diving, swimming, surfing and some of the best fishing. And even if it attracts a crowd the island still feels unspoiled. What we found very interesting was the fact that many students from Europe and beyond worked in groceries, restaurants or hotels. They came from Albania, Turkey, Romania, Bulgaria and so on.

During the time we stayed there it was still shortly before high season, quite chilly and we didn't even dip our toes into the sea. Every year our friend Durbin and his lovely wife Ludi spend 1 - 2 weeks of their holidays on Block Island and Marco got some first hand fishing advice from the expert.

Durbin explaining the fish to catch in the area

Marco is usually not a morning person, but in this case he got up one morning at 2 or 3am (I was still sleeping, so I don't know exactly...) and went to the spot Durbin had advised him to. And he came back at sunrise with a nice catch: Stripped Bass, a very delicious fish!

And last but not least I want to mention one person especially. Dave, who was joining Bill on his sailing trip from Bermuda to Newport. He calls Block Island his home, has lived there for many years. He really grew on us the more time we spent together. Marco and Dave could talk politics for hours as they never agreed on the others opinion. He brought us gifts and paid countless rounds on Happy Hour. Simply - he was there for us when needed.
This of course applies for so many people we've met on Block Island. So there goes a big THANK YOU out to the lovely folks we had the privilege of meeting while we stayed there!

Rahel & Dave

And Bill, this counts for you as well even though not fully deserved... He sent me the picture above with the title "Fetti" - making fun of my English pronunciation of "Fatty" ;-))

When we finally "untied the mooring lines" we did it with a feeling like leaving our home and family. Block Island will always have a special place in our hearts and we hope to go back there one day...

changes

Habibi's last trip started early in the morning

Dear blog follower

We went silent - on our blog and facebook. Of course there's a reason and we are finally able to share it with you. Here you go:

We stopped cruising and just put our beloved IP 380 "Habibi" up for sale!
(Find the link here and please feel free to share it and spread the word)

It wasn't a decision we've made from one day to the next and we can assure you it wasn't an easy one.
We are so very grateful that we had the chance to fulfill our dream of sailing - well, it was Marcos dream in the first place until I came to value it. Those almost two years of cruising taught us invaluable lessons for life.

While underway we met colorful people and made wonderful friendships, got to know different cultures, their food and way of living, experienced countless breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, learned to respect mother nature and its power. More than once we faced difficult situations, struggled with our abilities, reached our limits - and thanks God always managed to get by.

We learned a lot about ourselves, our strengths and weaknesses and how to complement one another. We both had our tasks and therefore shared responsibility. Marco developed unbelievably advanced technical and sailing skills while I lost my fear of the sea (but not the respect), took over the helm and was responsible for the route planning and weather forecasting.

Rahel is enjoying the perfect weather on Long Island Sound

In other words: we might look the same but this journey had a considerable impact on us - we think in a positive way.

And now we are on the way to start a landlubber life again. Marco awaits a new challenge: he's gotten the opportunity to go back to Dubai and resume work for his former employer in a very interesting position.

Marco already in working mode...

There are still stories and pictures we'd like to share but didn't have time for. We will be posting them soon. Stay tuned - the adventure isn't over yet!

Yours
Marco & Rahel

Dear Friends,

You may have wondered why we didn't update our blog and Facebook as usual. We learned a few weeks ago that one of our beloved family members fell seriously ill. In the meantime the situation worsened dramatically. Therefore we shortened our trip and Rahel is flying back home to Switzerland within the next few days. Once the situation is clearer we will update you on our next plans.

Rahel & Marco

Sailing New England

The light and fog horn at the entrance to Newport

Just a brief update. We're still cruising New England (currently in Block Island) and we're in love with it, even if it comes with a few sailing challenges that we have to get used to.  

First of all, this coast has much more tide than we ever experienced before. The changing water level is not a problem, what makes it new to us is the current. All the time the tide changes, the water flows in or out into the Atlantic. Therfore you may have current with or against you. Some spots are known to have almost as much current as we can run using our engine. Just imagine, you go full throttle just to realize that you're standing still. So additionally to watching wind and sea state we have to time departure and arrival according to the tide as well. 

our "bible" while sailing this area

As you may also know lobster is the catch over here - everywhere! Which means the very infamous buoys for the lobster pots are waiting all over the place to catch your propeller. And did I mention it can as well get foggy - within minutes?

on this buoy a lobster pot is attached

fog can appear quickly in New England!

But there are other very significant new things as well. Instead of telling now some cruiser tales I just quote 1:1 from our guide books and charts - have fun:

- "Torpedo testing area"

- "Submarines operate throughout the area, appearing when least expected (especially interesting in the fog)"

- "an infamous section of the passage where 7 knots and shifting currents are not unusual"

Newport sucks, really!

Coffee Stop at Castle Hill with Durbin

We stayed now for more than one week in Newport. And as the title says, it really sucks. 

First of all it's very expensive for boaters. I mean - really freaking expensive. A berth in a marina is 200 USD and up for a boat of 40 feet PER NIGHT. A mooring is 45 USD per night. No weekly or monthly rates available of course, even Rahel's charm didn't help (just seems to work in the Caribbean...). And like planned, the designated anchor field is cluttered with moorings and there is literally no space for some nice carefree nights on the hook. 

And if you think it cannot get worse, there are those people! Take Bill for example. We met him back in Culebra, Puerto Rico, where he was working in the "Dinghy Dock Bar & Restaurant" on the weekends. He actually owns a well known Irish pub back in Charleston himself ("Dunleavy's Pub" on Sullivan's Island). But since he rather likes to cruise than to work in his own bar his nephew is taking care of it now and Bill bartenders all over the US instead. Since twenty plus years or so. Which means he of course used to work in the best bar/restaurant in Newport and our favorite hangout - the "Black Pearl" - as well. No surprise he knows everybody, or better everybody who owns a bar or works or used to work behind a counter at one time. And that's now a real big disaster for our cruising kitty!

The "gang": Denise, Wolfgang (s/v Moony), Rahel, Dave, Marco (pic by Bill)

After one week most of the local bartenders in the hippest locations do greet us by name already ;-) They're not even asking anymore if we'd like to open a tap - it's taken for granted.  Not particular something you get for free!
And it got even worse: Instead of curing our hangover on the boat we had to meet up with Durbin at 10am ashore! He insisted to show us around Newport in his car. As you can imagine it was no fun at all... I mean, who wants to hang around with a local guy who knows all the details of each of the amazing mansions, or knows every secret sightseeing jewel no tourist will ever get to see? Who really needs to know that you can eat delicious sandwiches right besides the amazing super yachts in a working marina? To top the bad news, he gave me the best fishing advices since years. I caught one fantastic 20 inch fluke just within 20 minutes after using his advice and his lures. That really sucks as my wife now expects that I get the same kind of fish every night to make up for the too much needed $$ in the bars. And as you know, I really hate pressure!

Durbin & his lovely wife Ludi with Marco in front of Claiborne Pell Newport bridge

To make the whole story worse there is Dave, a sailing buddy of Bill's. We met back in Bermuda for the first time. He calls Block Island his home, which by pure accident will be our next destination. I can already foresee whole nights of discussions about things we do not agree on at all (besides the common understanding that one last beer may clear the other persons view...) And knowing me and my old sales habits, I will not stop until Dave understands...

Did I mention that Bill will start working in a bar on Block Island in a few days and Durbin and his lovely wife Ludi are going to spend some time there too? For some racing, fishing and bocce on the beach?

Folks, please get me out of here...!

PS: Here you can see Bill being interviewed back in 2012 about the "Polar Plunge" at his pub, an event to raise money to benefit Special Olympics SC athletes ;-) 

Caught in a warm eddy!!!

the circles are "eddies" (from www.oc.nps.navy.mil)

Ever heard of a warm eddy? We neither! And before you now think in the wrong direction - Yes, it has something to do with sailing! But let us explain:

When we sailed over from Bermuda to New England we had once more to cross the Gulf Stream. That’s this river of warm water flowing with a high current up the East Coast of the US. But this flow is not between two narrow coasts, it lays somewhere between Bermuda and New England, both landmasses are roughly 700nm apart. Means, you will enter this sometimes vicious current after three days of sailing in the middle of nowhere. And just that you can picture it: the stream of water moves around 30 – 150 million cubic meter water per second depending on its location. As a comparison, all the rivers combined which drain water into the Atlantic are estimated with just 0.6 million cubic meter per second. Guess it's fair to say there is a good amount of energy out there in the nowhere. 

Therefore planning is important: we wanted to enter the stream where the flow was easy and, more important, narrow. In our case, the forecasters named a spot where we would have just a 30nm wide “window” of current to cross and then could sail out of it again. So far so good. But it gets better, there may be a warm eddy on our way. In simple words, that’s a circular movement of warm (or cold) water which could push us even a bit more in the direction we needed to go. Current from behind sounds cool on a sailboat as we all long for some extra speed. We were excited!

Gulf Stream is Red (from http://www.opc.ncep.noaa.gov)

As a matter of fact, the Gulf Stream crossing was easy. Like the whole trip we had almost no waves and the wind was a bit on the light side. Around midnight we supposedly had all behind us and Rahel went to bed leaving me on the “after Gulf Stream Nightshift”. It was a blast: Wind picked up, I put even a bit more sails out and Habibi screamed with seven plus knots into the dark. Until I noticed a sudden course change – we steered off course! That’s when you start to check things: Wind shift? Current? Autopilot? Everything seemed normal but the course change went worse. I hand steered and ended up almost 180 degrees off course – no way I could hold direction!! The sails were now flapping and everything seemed out of control. I needed help - fast! I got Rahel out of her well deserved sleep to help me steering while I dealt with the sails. That’s when it got really strange…

We finally had all the sails down and the engine was running. So we tried to go back on course. But there was no way to steer the boat – it went all over the place. We assumed that the rudder was broken (an almost impossible thing on an Island Packet) – of course, it was not. Sooner or later we realized that we must have been caught in a circular current (or eddy). A quick look on the thermometer proofed the theory; The water temperature in the Atlantic over here is around 13 degrees Celsius. It showed almost 26C! That damn eddy wasn't moving us forward - it was spinning us all over the place!

It was really scary! The engine was running at full throttle, we were doing eight knots in one direction and then boom, the boat turned 180 degrees without any rudder movement and we were doing 0 knots! Whatever we tried, the boat turned with the current and it seemed there was no way out. Of course it was pitch dark, there was nothing to get our bearings – just the compass and the GPS. We tried for sure 10 times – no chance to get out of this mess. The circular current had a firm grip on us and it seemed it would never let us go. Would this really be the end of our trip? Will Habibi and its crew end as a ghost ship like the "Flying Dutchman" and circle the world forever??

Well, not this time. At one point (when the now blank panic on board finally settled) we decided that we had to move with the current and act as soon it would weaken. After drifting for some time with this damn eddy we realized we could now steer again in a certain direction (and believe us, we did not even care if it would bring us to the North Pole at this time). One hour later (which felt like an eternity) Habibi left this eddy behind and was on course again. The crew on the other hand was still pretty shaken. And we still are if we think back…

May this force never be with you!

innocent sunrise after "eddy"

More about eddies: (http://www.geol.sc.edu/cbnelson/eddy/eddy.htm)